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(I’ve decided to post out of order, Poland first, then Berlin out of laziness)
I was very excited for this trip. A little nervous of what we would be doing there, visiting Auschwitz, but nonetheless very excited. This trip would be very cheap, flying through wizzair. It was like 50$ roundtrip.
We boarded at Malmö airport and the flight attendants were wearing bright pink and purple, to match the colors of the plane. Got lucky and sat in the XXL leg room section. We arrive at Katowice and had to take a minivan to Kraków, which was over an hour drive. I noticed people swerve lanes much quicker than in the US. The roads usually have 2 lanes and some cars are just so slow, at times when there is only 1 lane, it makes things much more frustrating. Driving through Poland, it just looked like going through so much history. I already felt the concentration camp vibe. It was super cold and the land looked dried out from it.
We reached Kraków, found our bearings and got to the hostel by foot. Accommodations were great and so cheap (10$ a night). Very new, spacious, and clean, got a bed in a 10 person room, 6 of which would be occupied by our party alone. Starving, it was already close to 4pm, which meant the sun was already about to set, so we set out to the main market square. Food prices are so cheap in Poland compared to Sweden, we were all very excited. We stopped at an Italian Restaurant that also served Polish food. Ordered Polish cutlet and baked potatoes, a very hefty portion. Yum. Then we met with Matt, Ray, and Katie, who had went to Warsaw before Kraków. Went and had dessert and drinks. Hot apple cake with whipped cream. Enough said. Did a little exploring then called it a night.
Day 2: Auschwitz
What a heavy day it was. We were picked up in a van and transported to Auschwitz-Birkenau. The ride took over an hour and during that time, we watched a documentary about the liberation of the camps. When we got off, omg, it was freezing. It was -7C. We saw a pond frozen over. Yes, we Californians were freezing our butts off.
Our tour guide told us a story of how her father in law was sent here back in the 40s and survived. Before he passed away, he told her she should work there and that is what she has been doing for 30 years.
First, we saw the entrance, the sign that says “Arbeit Macht Frei” (Work sets you free). Turns out that the sign was stolen a few years back by a Swedish guy and was recovered in 3 pieces a few days later. Hah, really, a Swede? They are such harmless people. Anyways, I just couldn’t believe that I was here and that I was stepping on the grounds that horrible things took place not long ago. The barbed wire fencing, outlook posts and uniform buildings. It was just getting started.
So many of the buildings have turned into exhibits. In one, the halls were filled with pictures of victims with their enter and death dates. So many faces, just staring at you. Some only lasted for a year, some a month, some a few days. In another building, we saw standing cells, where prisoners had no room to sit or lay down. They were placed there as punishment and stayed there overnight before coming out to work 10hours the next morning. Then we saw a room filled with empty cans of poisonous gas that was used in the gas chambers where they told prisoners they would be taking a shower, but stuffed 2000 men, women, and children into one room to be killed. We saw a big pile of glasses, metals, pots/bowls, clothes, suitcases, and so many shoes that were brought by the prisoners to the camp. However, the most emotional sight was seeing the room filled with human hair. The very same hair that was cut off prisoners’ head. There must have been thousands of pounds of hair on display.
We walked by where people would be publicly hung. Then visited a gas chamber/crematory. It was dimly lit, and just walls of cement and in the next room, places to burn the bodies.
The second part of the trip, we took a van and drove 3 km to Auschwitz-Birkenau. We pulled up to the front and wow, this is exactly what you see in the movies and pictures of the holocaust. A brick arc way through which trains would enter. The trains that brought millions to the camp. We walked in and just knowing that you are stepping the same paths as millions who were condemned to death and hard labor, a life of absolute misery, is overwhelming. We stood on the train tracks. “To the left, those healthy enough were sent to hard labor. To the right, instant death.”
We walked past 2 gas chambers that were destroyed. Many of them were destroyed by the Nazi to hide evidence of any wrongdoing. Only one was standing at the end of the war, but was soon destroyed by the victims.
We visited the barracks. Cold and dark, lined with wooden planks to sleep on. Those who slept on the top bunks would be exposed to snow and rain that would fall through the holes in the roof. We also entered a room that had 3 long lines of cement with a whole bunch of holes. It was used as a bathroom. All of the toilets would be used at once, twice a day and you would have a time limit to use them.
As we left, it was getting dark. We had enough of the heavy feelings for one day so we went out for dinner in the main market square joined by 2 Dutch guys from our hostel. We settled at a medieval themed restaurant. Steping inside, it was fully decorated, live music, and costumes. Our long wooden table was dimly lit by wax candles. I ordered the chicken roulade with boiled potatoes and honey beer! That’s right, honey beer!! Poland has awesome beers. It had the taste of honey but wasn’t as sweet as cider. Very delicious, why don’t they have them elsewhere? The food took an hour but finally came and it was great.
Afterwards we went to a bar. We decided to split some polish shots so we could all give it a try. 6 shots for 20pln (which is like $1 a shot). Its very hard to sip on vodka. One tasted like gasoline. hah. Sat around and had some drinks, then the girls went back to the hostel and the guys went to another bar.
Day 3: City Exploring
The girls got up and went to a nearby flea market. Except, it wasn’t really a flea market, more of an open air market. Clothes, shoes, fruits and veggies. Those sort of items. Then we went to the main market square because there is shopping there too. In the center of the square, there are vendors selling souvenirs and amber among other things. Lots and lots of amber. I think half of them sold it.
We met up with the guys for lunch at a place called Kokos. The polish girl that Matt, Ray, and Katie stayed with in Warsaw recommended it because it was cheap and gave good portions. Indeed they were. For 15pln (under 5$) I got a bowl of chicken noodle soup, salad (that were pickled veggies) and schnitzel with fries. So much food. So good.
Then we went to the Church of the Virgin Mary. Very decorated and fancy inside. They had the pope’s voice on loud speaker which sorta freaked me out. Then we walked to Wawel Royal Castle. Finally, something that really looked like a castle. Pretty cool architecture. We visited the cathedral because that was the only thing open and saw the dragon statue. They are very big on dragons there.
We then went to a nice cafe and sat there for a while. Ordered a caramel macchiato. Lots of foam and wasn’t strong at all. Although I really wanted to go to Schindler’s factory initially, it was nice to just relax at a cafe. And besides, we already had enough heaviness the day before. All rested up, and although it was dark out, we decided to walk around the Jewish Quarter. But we didn’t really see much so went back to the city center and had dinner. Went back to the hostel. So the owner, Michael is such a nice guy. We didn’t make reservations for the night because our flight was at 6am, so we would leave Krakow around 2-3am. And he didn’t have any reservations that night but he let us leave our luggage there. We asked if he wanted to go to a bar with us and he accepted. Katie and Ray stayed behind to do work and Michael was nice enough to give them the keys to the hostel. So the rest of us went around the corner to Chata. I ordered a raspberry beer (yum) and we talked with him. He told us about why he started running a hostel and about the Hoscars (Oscars for Hostels) and how there are 150 hostels in Krakow alone which means lots of competition.
After that we went back and chilled till 2AM, when we left for the train station. Everyone passed out for a bit. We were sad to leave but Michael said he was sad to see such great visitors leave as well. Aw.
The van ride to the airport was a bit scary because there was so much fog and it was pitch dark out. Sometimes we could only see about 5m in front of us. We were excited to come home to Sweden weather. Yes, I can’t believe I said that but I did. But we got off the airplane, and what the… it was JUST AS COLD THERE. What happened?! It was so cold that when I was walking back with my bike, frost was forming on the hairs of my finger. So ridiculous!
But yes, I realllllly enjoyed Poland and would definitely like to visit again one day. I also will miss all the cheap food.